Diamond Cutter Yoram F. on the Intricacies of French Cut Diamonds

These rectangular French cut diamonds will be featured in my wedding band collection that is coming soon!

If you’ve been following my blog and social media (many thanks!), you’ve seen several pictures of the exquisite French cut diamonds I’m using in my designs. I’ve received many inquiries asking what types of French cuts I offer, so I wanted to introduce you to the diamond cutter who creates these incredible cuts, Yoram F. of GemConcepts Ltd. I’ve seen many types of French cut diamonds from rare antiques to newly cut gems, but it’s paramount that I offer the most stunning cuts available in my designs, and Yoram’s cuts are, in a word, sublime.

I’m thrilled to offer these Art Deco style French cuts that have been designed true-to-period by Yoram. Yoram specializes in Old World cutting styles, and his cuts combine historical charm with dazzling light performance. Each French cut diamond, no matter what the size, is cut from a rough crystal to showcase the antique cutting style that sets these gems apart from diamonds that are simply re-cut from existing cuts. Each diamond, and this includes diamonds as small as 1.5mm, is carefully planned and cut to showcase the complex faceting that makes these diamonds especially unique. And while many of us adore the look of French cuts, it’s important to look at the evolution of this cutting style and the research and development that goes into creating these cuts today.

I’ve utilized these cuts in my Minna engagement rings, and they will also be featured in my wedding band designs which are coming soon! I offer two French cut styles: single-crown and split-crown corner faceting, which you can see below. I asked Yoram to delve into the intricacies of his cutting styles for an in-depth look at these fascinating diamonds.

Erika Winters Fine Jewelry French Cut Diamonds

Graduated French cut diamonds set in the Minna engagement ring

Read Yoram’s thoughts below, and stay tuned to see these beautiful French cuts in my wedding band collection!

 French Cut Diamonds, defined by Yoram F. of GemConcepts Ltd.

“French cuts evolved from table cuts, which are historically considered the first faceted diamonds recorded from as early as the late 14th century in Italy. Table cuts were highly prized until the mid 17th century throughout Europe.

Further development on the table cut led to the origins of the step- and scissor-cut designs that eventually evolved into what we today call the standard 58 facet brilliant cut design.

The progressive experimentation period (approximately 3 centuries) was a long and complicated journey that culminated in the French cutting style that we presently understand. French cuts came in a wide variety of faceting combinations but only a few survived the test of time. Original Art Deco era jewels might display these treasures the best even though its quite rare finding jewels set with French cut diamonds.

I have been cutting and supplying French cut diamonds to a select group of jewelers for over a decade. I recognize that correct proportions are of the upmost importance. Each geometric shape requires its own finessing. Due to my extensive experience in this field I have designed and recorded specific proportions to complement each shape (outline) in our offerings. We keep focusing on R&D to bring innovative cut combinations to accommodate the creative space that exists between the originality of antique/vintage jewelry designs and present contemporary designs.

French cuts must be cut to correct proportions of high crown heights coupled with  correctly-applied pavilion angles and depth. That is what history intended and for good reasons I must add! Each shape (elongated, square, trapezoid etc.) requires different sets of criteria. The high crowns present in each of our cuts further displays what we call the “sculptor effect,” a 3D visual which makes each and every French cut pop while allowing additional play of light caused by its surface reflections.

French cut diamonds commonly possess 18 to 24 facets. I have seen some cut to only 12 facets. If the proportions on such a low count facet design are not correctly applied (e.g. mimicking flatter crown/deep pavilion generic cut proportions like baguettes) they will appear dull and watery and will worsen as dirt starts accumulating on the pavilion.

We currently cut a few facet design variations in many geometric shapes and calibrations to complement and fit almost any jewelry design.

Two classic examples we currently cut:

• Single crown corner faceting (one triangular facet on each corner) resulting in a four-sided diamond-shaped table

• Split crown corner faceting (two triangular facets on each corner) The split crown version creates a type of eight-sided table.

I strongly believe each and every facet has a crucial role in the appearance of a polished diamond. Each of our French cut diamonds (no matter what the size) have specially and correctly applied triangular pavilion corner facets that directly impact each diamond’s play-of-light, contrast, and character. As with all of our designed diamond cuts, a polished culet is added to display a distinct Kozibe effect. (Kozibe is the diamond’s culet reflecting in the crown facets.)

From the antique look and feel to the ultra-modern precision, minutia adjustments are in our control and can be applied to all of our classic cuts upon client requests.

French Cut Diamonds by Yoram F.

Yoram’s split-corner and single-corner French cut diamonds – left to right • Image courtesy of GemConcepts Ltd.

French Cut Diamonds by Yoram F.

You can see the stunning 3D sculptural effect of Yoram’s French cut diamonds upside down. Note the beautiful crown height on each diamond. Image courtesy of GemConcepts Ltd.

Special thanks to Yoram for sharing information on these incredible cuts. Erika Winters Fine Jewelry is proud to offer these stunning French cut diamonds in our collections and custom designs. Please contact us for more information about designing a gorgeous jewel for you. And stay tuned! Wedding bands set with these exquisite French cuts are coming soon!